Mandarin as it smells at dusk, not the bright snap of morning peel: sweet at the front, slightly bitter at the back. Sibonei hand-pours each candle in small batches, in a clean-burning blend of coconut, soy and beeswax.

Light it in the kitchen while dinner is still on the stove; it clears the air without erasing the cooking.

For the friend who hosts on Sundays, and the thank-you you have been meaning to send. Only at MA VIE in New York.