Wild-caught Portuguese sardines packed in good olive oil, nothing else. The tin that turned a humble fish into the thing everyone puts on the board.

The oil is rich and the sardines silky, with a real hit of protein and calcium under the flavor. Smash them onto grilled sourdough with ricotta, a drizzle of honey and a pinch of chili.

A host gift that costs little and reads knowing. The stocking. The friend who has discovered tinned fish and isn't going back.

Wild-caught sardines in olive oil. From Miss Can, Lisbon.