The bottle deserves a centerpiece of its own. A wine and champagne bucket in polished nickel over brass, heavy enough to hold its chill through a slow second course, with a surface that catches candlelight the way only proper metal does. It sits at the center of the table doing exactly what an ice bucket should, and looks like it was inherited. For the wedding registry, the milestone anniversary, the friend whose dining room is finally finished and needs one real piece.